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When you have that much refrigerant behind the case it's a good idea to put open-on-energize solenoids at the inlet and outlet going to the case and tie it to a leak detector and set to detect large leak if you put the solenoids on the system side of the bulkhead, you'd be able to remove the case to as needed too.

The control wires should be setup so they get yanked and break/unplug first so you can't yank the fittings out before the solenoids shut off if accidental hyper extension is reasonably possible.

Ours leaked at the crimp connection where the metal goes to the rubber.

These are rubber lines with a braided metal jacket.

The metal jacket is just to prevent abrasions, and does not hold refrigerant. The rubber on a good quality Automotive flex tube is much thicker.

We cut some apart to see where they were leaking at. It's for fixed installations, not repetitive motion.

Problem is there is basically no information on these.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk Perhaps the installation practice or usage violated minimum radius specs and the metal core snapped.R22 is a leaky monster and it is very good at seeping through plastics/rubbers.A certain refrigerant hose is rated at under half pound a year per square foot at typical condensing temperatures with HFC 404A and 134a but for R22, it about sixty times more at 30 lbs/year.Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk The metal jacket has the same purpose as the cords in tires.If you didn't have the jacket the hose would inflate like an inner tube.

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Is anybody using flexible refrigerant lines (Rectorseal or others) for mini split installs?

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